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Finishing Tips for your unfinished furniture:

Here are some tips from the Unfinished Furniture Association:

Surface Preparation

• All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.
• Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Sanding is a progressive procedure. Prepare the surface by using medium sand paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. Water based finishes need a smoother surface than oil based finishes, but do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such as #120 sandpaper, and finish the final sanding with a fine grit sandpaper such as #220. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain.
• We recommend minimizing the grain raise, especially on hardwoods such as Oak and Ash. Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes.
• Option for wood stains: Soft woods such as Pine andAspen absorb wood stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood is pre-sealed. A natural (clear) stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter. Always test your color on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the natural clear stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain color.
• Unfinished furniture comes sanded from the factory, but still needs the final sanding with #180 or #220 sandpaper.
• Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or "oil free" tack cloths. Do not use oil based tack cloths when using water based finish. Most tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate the surface.
• Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for water based finish, as steel particles will cause rust spots.

Supplies Needed

• Lots of good quality paper towels or lint-free cloths for wiping.
• Foam brushes (3" to 4" for big projects)or latex paint pad applicators and a bristle brush to pull stain out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles.
• #100 or #120, and #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
• #320 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing between Top Coats. Do not use steel wool because steel particles left behind will rust.
• Soap and water for clean up.

Application of Water Based Wood Stains

• Always stir the contents well every time you open the can. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain and distributes pigments that may have settled to the bottom of the can. It may take several minutes to thoroughly mix the contents so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.
• Always do a test first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area to check the stain color before proceeding. Do not practice on your new furniture. Every piece of wood and every wood species is unique and will finish differently. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat of stain is adequate. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color.
• Divide your project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door) and stain one surface at a time. It is essential to apply with a wet, liberal amount of stain. Load up a 3" or 4" foam brush or latex paint pad with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance. As you stain each section, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth or paper towel thoroughly and consistently in the direction of the grain. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. Immediately correct lap marks by rewetting the area with stain. Sanding between coats of any stain or Top Coat is called Buffing. Never buff between stain coats.

Application of Water Based Furniture Paint and Glaze

Water based Furniture Paints can be used with glazes and water based stains to create decorative finishes such as distressing, antiquing, faux marble, rag rolling,or color washing. Creating these layered techniques requires using layers of color combined with sanding techniques. The results are stunning and well worth the effort.

Distressing is the technique of marking the wood to give the character of generations of use. The most common technique is distress sanding. Other tools can be used to give further character to wood; hammers, nails, screws, old hardware, literally anything you can pound into the wood that would leave an imprint. Then start hammering away. If it's been a long week and you need a lift, start a little character therapy project for yourself. Get rid of all that stress and distress a piece of furniture at the same time!

Antiquing is another form of distressing using sanding techniques, often followed by glazing to give the appearance of an antique piece of furniture that has been well taken care of over the years but, has slight natural wear and discoloration on the doors, edges, or sides.

Glazing is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then rubbing off the excess glaze.

Applying Furniture Paints

• Always test the color on the underside of the project. It is your responsibility to insure that the color is what you want. Do not practice on your new furniture!
• Always stir the contents well. Stirring distributes pigments that have settled to the bottom of the can.
• Application is somewhat similar to applying latex paint; working quickly is helpful. It is essential to apply a wet, liberal coat with a wide foam brush or paint pad applicator. If too little paint is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance.
• A minimum of two to three coats of paint is recommended.
• If using different colors of water based furniture paint over one another (for example, when creating antique finishes), always apply a coat of water based Top Coat in between the layers of paint to prevent color blending.
• Buff lightly between each coat of furniture paint with either a superfine sanding sponge or #320 sandpaper. The final Top Coat does not need to be buffed.
• Apply one or two coats of water based Top Coat for added durability or to increase sheen.

Applying Glazes

• Always test the color on the underside of the project. It is your responsibility to insure that the color is what you want. Do not practice on your new furniture!
• Always stir the contents well. Stirring distributes pigments that have settled to the bottom of the can.
• Recommendation: Before applying glaze you have the option of Top Coating first, which will help you control the amount of color and facilitate the spreading of glaze over the surface. The Top Coat layer is smoother and less absorbent, allowing the glaze to slide across the surface. If you want a rustic look with more color, skip the Top Coat layer and apply the glaze directly to the paint.
• Pour Glaze into a small flat pan, paper plate covered with aluminum foil, or painter's tray. Using a foam brush or paint pad, working one section at a time, apply Glaze liberally (really slather it on), keeping the surface wet until the entire section is covered with glaze. Option: If you have already distress-sanded your furniture, you can lightly rub Glaze just into the sanded areas to give your piece a little more color, instead of glazing the entire piece.
• Wipe off excess with a lint free cloth to achieve the desired look. Application is somewhat similar to applying latex paint; working quickly is helpful. If necessary, mask off smaller sections around raised areas such as bead board and moldings. Glazes dry fairly quickly, so plan your sections before beginning. The glaze will color any sanded areas and give the painted sections an aged look.
• Recommendation: Before applying glaze you have the option of Top Coating first, which will help you control the amount of color and facilitate the spreading of glaze over the surface. The Top Coat layer is smoother and less absorbent, allowing the glaze to slide across the surface. If you want a rustic look with more color, skip the Top Coat layer and apply the glaze directly to the paint.
• Let dry 2-4 hours.
• Apply one or two coats of Top Coat for added durability or to increase sheen.